The Droughts Over, I'm Wet a Spring Transitional Collection. INVAIN's first fully realized collection designed, patterned, sewn completely by Racheal Simeone. The concept of the collection is clothing to protect you from the influx of rain over the past year in San Francisco after three years of drought. I prefer to wear denim, fur, and leather and I wanted to create looks including those fabrics but also are protected from harsher weather. I created protective pieces out of PVC and vinyl to pair with my favorite fabrics so they could be worn out anytime and removed when desired. The models make up is intended to look as though they had been caught in the rain. The flowers represent the new growth from changes in environment.
LOOK 1:
Materials:
Faux fur, textured black nylon, crystal trim and lining. I choose the nylon specifically because it reminded me of water droplets against glass and also to give a lightness to the garment.
Techniques:
The outer layer is a over the shoulder shawl with strips of fur and nylon which I pattern drafted. Under the shawl is a draped dress. I wanted to drape in stretch fabric because my draping teacher told me I couldn't and because I have a collection of draped knits from various designers I love and wear daily. The sleeves are draped to look like water cascading down the side of a building and have small rain drop shaped vents around the neckline and where the sleeve attaches to the cuff which I sewed by hand. To complete the look I embellished a store bought umbrella with crystal trim. The illustration was done by hand, scanned and brought into photoshop. The photography was done by Keith Bodziak at the RISE fashion show.
LOOK 2:
Materials:
Denim, PVC, jersey knit, ball and chain, snaps, piercings and silk lining.
Techniques:
First I pattern drafted a classic denim jacket and manipulated it. I elongated the length for extra coverage and warmth and also because I wanted it to match the length of the hoodie for a more cohesive silhouette. The hoodie was also pattern drafted with consideration of sizing. The hood is curved in a way to stay on you head if wind blows and there is chain all the way around to give it extra weight. The front pocket on the hood is extra large so you can protect your small bag and I have separate pockets in the jacket suited to fit your cell phone, cigarettes, and lighter. The front pocket details are tear drops and the bottom band is embellished with metal body jewelry to look like pouring rain.
LOOK 3:
Materials:
Organza, reflective synthetic woven, vinyl, glass beads, hook and eye, interfacting, rivets
Techniches:
I draped vinyl to create an umbrella shape to be carried over the head. I noticed often on windy rainy days umbrellas pop up so I wanted to create something to circumvent that. The glass beads where added to the bottom of the vinyl to create weight to help it stay in place. The trench was pattern drafted with windshields. I used white organza to create the illusion of clouds and the reflective two piece glows in the dark for illumination on dark rainy nights and was inspired by lightning in the sky.
LOOK 4:
Materials:
Faux fur, PVC, vinyl, lining, snaps, ball and chain, curtail, lycra
Techniques:
The jacket was pattern drafted. There are two removable pieces to cover the fur from the rain and can be removed and worn as a fur jacket for good weather. The removable pieces use the drip motif first seen in look 2. There is a choker with five pieces of ball and chain hand sewn to PVC with loose ends to create sound and movement while the model walks. Under the jacket is a stretch turtleneck minidress that has water wicking properties. I again have big pockets on the jacket for utility.
LOOK 5:
Materials:
PVC, faux fur, vinyl, leather, lining, interfacing
Techniques:
The silhouette from look 1 was reimagined into a different piece. I created a different shawl like jacket with a front see through pocket. On the back of the jacket I hand embroidered my label and the bottom trim is faux fur shielded by PVC. Under the look is a PVC mini skirt. The choker has the glass beading embellished into it.
LOOK 6:
Materials:
Black denim, textured black nylon, organza, leather, boning curtail, silk
Techniques:
The pants are pattern drafted and made to measure to the model. The bottom flare was inspired by the shape of an umbrella and the back pockets are made of leather. The jacket is an enlarged shawl from the pattern used in looks 1 and 5. There are french seams and was intended to look like a crinoline mixed with a puff down jacket. The shirt has the draped sleeves similar to look one with the same inspirations. There are vents in the sleeves connecting to the bodice so the garment will not need to be washed as often and creates a cooler environment for the wearer on a muggy rainy day.
Tools:
Sewing machine, serger, mannequin, photoshop, copic markers
Below is a mood board which is a collage I made with layering images in Photoshop.
